Which is the best High-End DV cam to buy?
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Which is the best High-End DV cam to buy?
I'm looking around and doing a little research on High-End MiniDV cams.
Which is the best to get, I need something with: An LCD + Viewfinder, 3 CCD, Manual Focus, White Balance, Exposure, good Optical Zoom, easy learning curve.
The only 2 cameras which I know that fit that description are the CanonGL2 and the Sony DCR-VX2100
Which should I go for?
What is Handycam by the way, just a Sony-Only term?
Which is the best to get, I need something with: An LCD + Viewfinder, 3 CCD, Manual Focus, White Balance, Exposure, good Optical Zoom, easy learning curve.
The only 2 cameras which I know that fit that description are the CanonGL2 and the Sony DCR-VX2100
Which should I go for?
What is Handycam by the way, just a Sony-Only term?
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Also, if it comes to the push, and I have to get a consumer MiniDV Cam, which 1CCD Cam with manual-everything is recommended?
Hopefully I'll just be able to use my SVHS-C Cam till I get the money to get a high-end one, When I bought this cam I had knew nothing about cameras and now that I know more, it seems like a great buy.
18X Optical Zoom
Manual/Auto Focus
Manual/Auto Exposure
Manual/Auto/Preset (Fine, Cloud, Halogen) White Balance
Stabalizer
Time Lapse
SVHS-ET (SVHS Simulation on a VHS-C cassette)
S.LX, Max and Normal
Widescreen (fake)
1/2000 High Speed Shutter
Sports Shutter Speed
ND Effect
Fog
Twilight filter
Audio Dubbing
Manual/Auto Tracking
Backlight Compensation
Not bad for a first buy, hey?
Hopefully I'll just be able to use my SVHS-C Cam till I get the money to get a high-end one, When I bought this cam I had knew nothing about cameras and now that I know more, it seems like a great buy.
18X Optical Zoom
Manual/Auto Focus
Manual/Auto Exposure
Manual/Auto/Preset (Fine, Cloud, Halogen) White Balance
Stabalizer
Time Lapse
SVHS-ET (SVHS Simulation on a VHS-C cassette)
S.LX, Max and Normal
Widescreen (fake)
1/2000 High Speed Shutter
Sports Shutter Speed
ND Effect
Fog
Twilight filter
Audio Dubbing
Manual/Auto Tracking
Backlight Compensation
Not bad for a first buy, hey?
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The vx-2100 has much better low light shooting capabilities than the GL-2. When I was looking to purchase a 3CCD cam these were the same two I came up with. Had the oppotunity to shoot botha vx-2000 and a GL-2 for a couple of hours to do some camparisons. The low light capability and the feel of the controls were the two biggest factors in picking the 2100. Also the VX has 1/3 inch ccd , the GL-2 has 1/4 inch CCDs.
I also felt the Sony had slightly warmer , deeper color saturation than the GL-2. Both are good cameras, but I just preferred the feel of the Sony, and the low light quality was what turned the corner on my decision.
I also felt the Sony had slightly warmer , deeper color saturation than the GL-2. Both are good cameras, but I just preferred the feel of the Sony, and the low light quality was what turned the corner on my decision.
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Now I'm torn... I'm going to be using the camera for film-making obviously... So the GL-2 is good for that, but everyone says overall the Sony is better. Which to get? One thing that would make me sway in GL-2's favour is the fact that the presentation for it on the Canon webpage is so good. Interactive videos etc.
Now I'm torn... I'm going to be using the camera for film-making obviously... So the GL-2 is good for that, but everyone says overall the Sony is better. Which to get? One thing that would make me sway in GL-2's favour is the fact that the presentation for it on the Canon webpage is so good. Interactive videos etc.
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Don't let sales BS sway you in the purchase, look at the specs. After all what does a flashy commercial have to do with the purchase . Kinda like buying a specific car because a good looking blonde is driving it an ad. pulldown
And hanasand, the whole concept of fix it in post is the bane of professionals everywhere. Most Pros take that line to mean " It doesn't matter if I shoot s**t video or not I can fake it" which is all you can do in post. You can increase the appearance of saturation but you can not add data that is not there in the source footage, only manipulate the data that is available. You can manipulate the source data with color correction, shifting the exisitng data, but when you manipulate saturation you can also increase pixelation.
It's also a pretty simple process in Premiere pro to create 24p video. Simply apply the posterize time effect to your regular 60 field ( NTSC) video and lock it down to 24 fps then render, voila, instant film look. Haven't tried this by first deinterlacing the source, but it may not look quite as good.
Unless you are planning to transfer to film, on a TV you will generally get a better look if the video is still interlaced and the frame rate stepped down. Unless your DVD player handles progressive scanned streams
you will see some ghosting playing progressive video when interlaced is expected....
The SOny will also shoot in progressive but it is 15p, which again can be bumped, but then we get back to creating data that is not there, which is generally a no-no.
In short, anything you are going to do in post should only be to enhance the data available in the source, not attempting to create new data to fill in. It's much better to change the format of the source on render ( frame rate)than it is to try to increase saturation or other pixel level manipulation.
And hanasand, the whole concept of fix it in post is the bane of professionals everywhere. Most Pros take that line to mean " It doesn't matter if I shoot s**t video or not I can fake it" which is all you can do in post. You can increase the appearance of saturation but you can not add data that is not there in the source footage, only manipulate the data that is available. You can manipulate the source data with color correction, shifting the exisitng data, but when you manipulate saturation you can also increase pixelation.
It's also a pretty simple process in Premiere pro to create 24p video. Simply apply the posterize time effect to your regular 60 field ( NTSC) video and lock it down to 24 fps then render, voila, instant film look. Haven't tried this by first deinterlacing the source, but it may not look quite as good.
Unless you are planning to transfer to film, on a TV you will generally get a better look if the video is still interlaced and the frame rate stepped down. Unless your DVD player handles progressive scanned streams
you will see some ghosting playing progressive video when interlaced is expected....
The SOny will also shoot in progressive but it is 15p, which again can be bumped, but then we get back to creating data that is not there, which is generally a no-no.
In short, anything you are going to do in post should only be to enhance the data available in the source, not attempting to create new data to fill in. It's much better to change the format of the source on render ( frame rate)than it is to try to increase saturation or other pixel level manipulation.
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Raptor: Yeah sure you can loose quality in post, but I'm not talking about f*** raping the footage to pieces. Small adjustements wont even be noticable. This thing you are talking about to make 24p (which is lame, use 25p) in premiere pro makes you loose half the quality vertically and is therefore not preferable. My choice would be the GL-2, espescially now that it has better sound options as well.
The manual sound adjustment is about the same as the vx2000/2100 has available, It's still an unbalanced input, so not a lot of gain there. If you want film look why not go to 24p film is 24 fps. If you use the posterize time to lock the frame rate to 24fps, and then field render the video at it's existing 60i, there is no loss of vertical, using posterize time is different than deinterlacing the 60i then changing the frame rate in the render. I found more function in the vx2100, the big diff for me was the increased low light sensitivity of the Sony. The diff between 1 lux and 6 lux may bot sound like much, but the Sony had great images at +9db with very little noise, to get equivalent images with the canon I had to crank it to +18db and picked up a lot of grain. The 25P is on the PAL version of the GL-2, the NTSC version is 30P which is still to high a frame rate for film. Like I said, the two biggest differences is the progressive mode on the canon is at a higher frame rate than the sony, but the sony responds better under low light, and seems to maintain it's saturation better. Both have pretty decent manual audio controls, I liked the placement of the some of the sony controls better, but that is strictly a personal preference. Other than the above all features are the same. Looked at the Sony site to see what the frame and case of the GL2 were, had heard it was plastic cased but can't confirm it, and didn't want to scratch the finish of the one I was tesating to find out LOL, I do know the Sony is magnesium frame and magnesium case exceptfor the LCD back and some trim pieces...
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Just to explain my hatred agains 24p that filmlook wannabes want, this is just dumbarse because your tv can't show anything but PAL or NTSC anyways, meaning 25p(very few can actually show true progressive though) 50i and the same for NTSC. When you see a DVD-PAL on your TV the framerate isn't even 24p there, even though shot on film. The reason? The television set won't be able to show 24 fps so they've speeded it up by like 4% to fit 25p format. Therefore: 24p is useless... Unless you plan to convert it to film and neeever reconvert back to any digital format meant for tv, which is a quite rare happening. Refering to Sony's 12,5/15p it is to low a framerate for it to feel like film and therefore just choppy and weird. But hey, different opininons is allright.
Exactly what I was saying above 24P is only good if going to film, NTSC is 29.97 fps or 60i. The whole concept of 'film look' is definitely wasted when playing back on a TV LOL. and Progressive scanning is only useful if the DVD player supports it.
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It's more common for the DVD player to support it than the TV. But even without these features you still get sort of a film feel to it, because the framerate will be the same as the one you see on your dvd's and stuff..Raptor wrote:...and Progressive scanning is only useful if the DVD player supports it...
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No TRVs are hard to learn! lol That is your standard consumer camcorder. Maybe try looking for a pro grade camcorder? 3ccds will improve your picture quality a lot. Actually, they have come out with single ccd professional cams which have higher resolution than 3ccd cams. Bloody expensive though!Twabi2 wrote:would I do a good deal buying a Sony DCR-TRV950 camera for 2000€?
I think it's a pretty good camera.
I heard it's hard to learn to use it, but I'm willing to spend some time :p
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The TRV-950 is a 3ccd cam and is basically a stripped down version of the vx2000 with a consumer lens, body and viewfinder and missing a some of the control options and smaller CCDs. Generally it is the consumerized VX2000/2100. Low light pickup isn't as good, closer to the Canon GL-2 than the VX series.
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From what I hear the GL2 and the VX2100 are the top of line best you can buy within an amatuer filmmakers budget/
"They're people who only want to be involved in filmmaking to get rich, get famous, or get laid. They know as much about filmmaking as George W. Bush knows about hand-to-hand combat"- Jim Jarmusch
Well some would say the PD-170 and XL1, but other than some audio stuff ( and in the case of PD-170 shooting DVCAM not much of an improvement LOL) I don't think either is worth the price diff, tho I'm sure the XL1 shooters will vehemently disagree LOL
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